A good day starts with a focaccia

In Genoa people even eat it with their cappuccino.

How, Where, and Why: Our Mini Guide to One of Italy’s Most Beloved Products.

In the Aeneid, Virgil describes how Aeneas used a “soporific” focaccia to make Cerberus, the guardian of the underworld, fall asleep. But, while this divine food apparently made people sleepy in ancient Rome, in Genoa it wakes people up in the morning. In fact, in Genoa accompanying an espresso or a cappuccino with a generous slice of piping hot focaccia, or – even better – dipping it directly in the cup, is an absolute must. But be careful. Before trying this on your own have a Genoan friend explain their foolproof technique: the dip must be quick and decisive, the focaccia must not get soggy or leave spots of oil behind in the coffee. This traditional pairing can’t help but makes us reflect upon how deeply rooted in our history is our desire to put sweet and salty together (like with caramel).

Focaccia’s Identikit

Throughout Italy, just about every bakery has its own style of focaccia: thicker or thinner, softer or crunchier. We’re talking about a true archetype in the world of baked goods, the origins of which are nearly impossible to pinpoint. Nevertheless, the focaccia in Genoa, in its simplicity, has a special quality that’s difficult to define. But we’ll give it a try.  There aren’t many ingredients in focaccia: all purpose flour, water, extra virgin olive oil, yeast, salt, and malt extract. But then there’s the long preparation: after kneading you must wait ten hours before baking in order to make sure that it has leavened properly. The result is a focaccia that is about two centimeters thick, crispy, and with the typical irregular dimples where the oil and salt crystals have concentrated.

Biting into a slice is a true delight for the palate.

And actually, eating it with the top side turned towards your tongue is recommended in order to really amplify the flavor. Anyway, as you can tell, we’re crazy about focaccia. It was probably our ancestors who, in the 16th century, were nearly excommunicated by the bishop of Genoa, Matteo Gambaro, because they were caught on multiple occasions devouring it during religious functions.

So is this focaccia’s identity card? Absolutely…. sort of. Because there’s actually another variation that’s an incredible treat for the palate, but less so for social interactions: the one made with onion. How should it be? In this case too, there’s a shortage of written sources and so we have no choice, but to trust our Genoan friends. At first sight it appears less inviting than the onion-free version because it’s less crispy and even almost soggy. But the contrast between the sweet and sour of the onion and the savoriness of the surface actually makes for the perfect combination. When you add in the slightly oilier depressions, it’s a done deal. There’s even a third variation, with sage, intended for a more “seasoned” public that has already toured the best bakeries in the city and is well-versed in the qualities, flaws, and characteristics of classic Genoan focaccia.

Where to Try It

Let’s begin with a fundamental premise: to this day, in Genoa – in the city center as much as in its periphery – you’ll find countless artisan bakeries that prepare a textbook focaccia. We’ve selected just a few that we’re certain won’t leave you disappointed.

• Fokaccia: Opens at 7:30am. You can meet here for a sit-down breakfast or perhaps a snack. Strictly with focaccia and cappuccino of course.
• Panificio Tognoni Sergio: Try biting right into one of the oil-rich dimples, because the oil they use comes straight from the Riviera and it’s amazing.
• Antico Forno della Casana: Ivan Sacchi grew up kneading and baking focaccia, so it goes without say that here you’ll taste one of the best focaccias in the city: perfectly oily and crispy.
• Panificio Patrone: Just ask anyone in Genoa’s historic center and they’ll be able to tell you where it is. There’s got to be a reason, right?
• Il Focaccino: Fragrant and perfectly soft, with just the right amount of oil to exalt its flavor. Once you start eating it, it’s hard to stop.